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One of Dallas' hottest neighborhoods just got . . . mas caliente.

La Duni, Espartaco Borga's cool new cafe in the heart of the stylish Knox-Henderson area, serves up authentic Latin fare with more than a passing nod to the barrio of Borga's childhood. There, neighbors lingered at the local cafe throughout the day, and strangers became fast friends. At La Duni, belly up to the espresso bar for one of Borga's 20-plus specialty drinks (the vaca blanca, or white chocolate -flavored coffee, is beyond delish), and bring along your laptop - you can log on while you sip. Or linger on the patio, with Caipirinha or a glass of Argentinean, Chilean or Spanish wine in hand (they'll even ply you with gratis tastes of wine until you find the perfect quaff).

La Duni's charming lack of pretension is reflected in it's breakfast, lunch and dinner offerings: No sculptured towers, no overworked entrees - just an edited selection of regional appetizers, salads, sandwiches and dishes from Venezuela, Columbia, Argentina, Brazil, Peru, Mexico and Cuba. Borga, whose past accomplishments include ZuZu handmade Mexican Food and Lavendou Bistro Provençal, is merely trying to stay as "truthful as possible to the original," and he's gone so far as to fly in experts from south of the border to verify a dish's authenticity. Thanks to an internship program, his kitchen is staffed with culinary whizzes from all across South America.

Desserts - from fried bunuelos, served with flavored sugar and caramel, chocolate and vanilla custard dipping sauces, to Venezuelan double-chocolate truffle cake - are muy bueno, which isn't surprising, since the restaurant's namesake, Borga's wife Dunia, also oversees the pastries. Don't leave without one of her super-pretty, hand-decorated fondant cookies.